=============================================== LEATHER CARE ANSWERS — SUEDE & LEATHER CARE CHECKLIST A routine for trainers, suede, leather footwear and leather goods leathercareanswers.co.uk =============================================== The rule behind every line below: CHEAPEST GENUINE FIX FIRST. Most "ruined" suede or leather isn't ruined. Check the material and try the simple fix before you reach for a product or a repair service. ----------------------------------------------- 1. FIRST RESPONSE (the first five minutes) [ ] Spill or fresh mark? Blot, don't rub — rubbing pushes it deeper [ ] Let a wet mark dry naturally before treating it — many marks fade or vanish once the item is fully dry [ ] Never point a hairdryer or radiator at suede or leather to speed drying — heat can crack leather and mat suede fibres [ ] Dust or dry dirt on suede: brush first, before anything wet ----------------------------------------------- 2. CLEANING SUEDE [ ] Brush in one direction with a proper suede brush (brass or rubber side) to lift dirt and raise the nap [ ] Use a suede eraser or a clean pencil eraser on scuffs and marks [ ] A suede protector spray applied BEFORE first wear does more good than any cleaner applied after a mark [ ] Leave out: water as a default cleaner, household detergent, baby wipes — these can stain or flatten the nap [ ] A proper suede cleaner or a specialist wet-clean is for marks the brush and eraser can't shift — read the product label ----------------------------------------------- 3. TRAINER AND SHOE ODOUR [ ] Let shoes dry out fully between wears — rotate pairs if you can [ ] Remove insoles to dry and clean separately where possible [ ] Baking soda left in overnight absorbs some odour; it is not a permanent fix on its own [ ] The freezer trick does not reliably kill odour-causing bacteria — treat it as folklore, not a fix [ ] A proper odour spray or UV sanitiser box treats the cause (bacteria), not just the smell ----------------------------------------------- 4. LEATHER SHOES AND BOOTS [ ] Wipe off dirt and dust before conditioning — never condition over grime [ ] Condition every few weeks in regular wear, more often in UK winter (salt and rain dry leather out fast) [ ] Cream feeds and conditions; wax polish shines and adds light water resistance — they do different jobs [ ] Salt marks: wipe with a damp cloth, dry naturally, then condition — never scrub salt in ----------------------------------------------- 5. LEATHER BAGS AND JACKETS [ ] Condition leather bags and jackets a few times a year — more if stored somewhere dry or heated [ ] Test any product on an inside seam first — colour can darken [ ] Never leave leather goods in direct sun or near a radiator — both dry leather out and can cause cracking ----------------------------------------------- 6. WHITE TRAINER YELLOWING [ ] Yellowing is usually oxidation (age, light and air), not dirt — a normal clean will not reverse it [ ] Store trainers somewhere dark and dry, not sealed in a box with no airflow, which can make yellowing worse [ ] A dedicated whitening product treats oxidation; bleach can damage the material and yellow it faster over time ----------------------------------------------- 7. SAFETY — THE SHORT VERSION [ ] Test any cleaner or spray on a small hidden area first [ ] Acetone, bleach and undiluted vinegar can strip colour or damage suede and leather — never a default choice [ ] Ventilate the room when using any spray-on product [ ] Torn leather, a failing re-sole or a large colour loss is a cobbler's job, not a DIY one ----------------------------------------------- This checklist is general guidance, not professional advice. Always follow your product labels and manufacturer care guidance. leathercareanswers.co.uk